Deprecated: Array and string offset access syntax with curly braces is deprecated in /var/www/dittegetnamn.se/public_html/misc/typo3/phar-stream-wrapper/src/PharStreamWrapper.php on line 479
Dittegetnamn - Repair http://dittegetnamn.se/tags/repair To repair something is good. Do not throw away things that can be repaired. You feel better when you get it going again. en Arduino autonomous robot - BennyStruktor 1 (a cat toy!) http://dittegetnamn.se/content/arduino-autonomous-robot-bennystruktor-1-cat-toy <div class="field field-name-field-image field-type-image field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" rel="og:image rdfs:seeAlso" resource="http://dittegetnamn.se/sites/default/files/styles/large/public/field/image/BennyStruktor%201_bb.png?itok=iaBJtfWX"><img typeof="foaf:Image" src="http://dittegetnamn.se/sites/default/files/styles/large/public/field/image/BennyStruktor%201_bb.png?itok=iaBJtfWX" width="427" height="480" alt="" /></div></div></div><div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>The cat wants toys. Cool toys! A video of the toy!</p> <p></p><div class="media_embed" height="315px" width="560px"> <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315px" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/S4u9dVcgXpo" width="560px"></iframe></div> <p> </p> <div class="media_embed" height="315px" width="560px"> <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/K6QAM8PASP0" width="560px"></iframe></div> <p> </p> <h2>How to do it:</h2> <p>Let´s print a robot chassi: <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:170724">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:170724</a></p> <p>And a holder for the ultransonic sensor: <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1104187">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1104187</a></p> <p>Get some servos! <a href="https://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/el-verktyg/elektronik/arduino/tillbehor/servomotor-4-1-kg-p87902">https://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/el-verktyg/elektronik/arduino/tillbeh...</a> Futuba S3003. Nice ones! But they do not turn 360 degrees. Let´s modify it: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7xL2aXacx0">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7xL2aXacx0</a> (hack away the mechanical part that stops it from going around and disengage the internal potentiometer, set it to 50 %).</p> <p>Mount the stuff! Connect to the Arduino board as shown in the image.</p> <p>Add simple power from a 9 Volt battery. <a href="http://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/9VBatteryAdapter">http://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/9VBatteryAdapter</a></p> <p>Then some simple code. When something is too close, one wheel reverse direction and makes the robot turn. Do not forget to find the corredt libraries.</p> <p>/*<br />  * BennyStruktor 1<br />  * A cat toy<br />  * */</p> <p>#include &lt;NewPing.h&gt; // for the ultrasonic sensor<br /> #include &lt;Servo.h&gt;  // for the servos</p> <p>// Settings of the ultrasonic sensor<br /> #define TRIGGER_PIN 11<br /> #define ECHO_PIN 12<br /> #define MAX_DISTANCE 200</p> <p>// init some servos<br /> Servo LeftServo; <br /> Servo RightServo;</p> <p>// init the ultrasonic sensor <br /> NewPing sonar(TRIGGER_PIN, ECHO_PIN, MAX_DISTANCE); // NewPing setup of pins and maximum distance.<br />  <br /> void setup() <br /> {</p> <p>   // hook up the servos<br />    LeftServo.attach(9);<br />    RightServo.attach(10);<br /> }<br />  <br /> void loop() <br /> {<br />   delay(200); // wait a little<br />   unsigned int uS = sonar.ping_cm(); // read the distance<br />   if(uS &lt; 5) <br />   {<br />     // Something is detected less than 5 cm in front of the robot. Turn!  <br />       LeftServo.write(170); // one wheel goes in opposite direction<br />       RightServo.write(170);<br />     <br />   }<br />   else<br />   {<br />     // No obstacles! Proceed forward<br />     LeftServo.write(170); // both wheels turn forward <br />     RightServo.write(10);<br />     <br />     <br />   }<br />    <br /> }</p> </div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-tags field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">Tags:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" rel="dc:subject"><a href="/tags/repair" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Repair</a></div></div></div> Mon, 13 Mar 2017 21:39:30 +0000 Martin 41 at http://dittegetnamn.se http://dittegetnamn.se/content/arduino-autonomous-robot-bennystruktor-1-cat-toy#comments Ensoniq VFX-SD keybed connector repair http://dittegetnamn.se/content/ensoniq-vfx-sd-keybed-connector-repair <div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>Sometimes I really love old gear. And in this case, it´s old Ensoniq-stuff.</p> <h2>Common problems - the connector inside the keybed</h2> <p>In all old Ensoniq synthesizers there is an issue with one simple connector inside the Fatar keybed. This applies to at least ESQ-1, SQ-80 and the VFX-series, probably also SD-1. This will cause the synthesizer to fail (e.g. freezes, system error 144, failed calibration of the keybed and so on). Grab a cup of coffe and/or tea. Maybe a cinnamon bun also!</p> <ul><li>To get to the keybed, just remove the four screws in top to flip up the lid.</li> <li>Remove the screws seen from the underside holding the keybed.</li> <li>Unhook the ribboncable from the main board and carefully lift out the keybed.</li> </ul><p>This is a picture of the keybed with just four keys removed, giving you enough space to work on the connector. You can see the bottom of the connector. The connector is failing after years of oxide and sitting still. Such connectors should not be used unless were you can easily pull it apart now and then to remove oxide.</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/20161205_201721.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="medium_20161205_201721.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_20161205_201721.jpg" style="height:120px; width:120px" /></a></p> <p>A close up of the connector. </p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/20161205_201728.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="medium_20161205_201728.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_20161205_201728.jpg" style="height:120px; width:120px" /></a></p> <p>To remove the keys, simply use a flat screwdriver to pull the small flap just a little bit and slide the key of the holders. Please do note that you do not need a lot of force, otherwise the flap will be broken and you very sad.</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/20161205_201755.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="medium_20161205_201755.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_20161205_201755.jpg" style="height:120px; width:120px" /></a></p> <p>Then, simply solder some lines across. All done. The picture below is maybe an example of a quick and dirty solution. However, it works very well. <img alt="smiley" src="http://dittegetnamn.se/sites/all/modules/ckeditor/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/regular_smile.png" style="height:23px; width:23px" title="smiley" /></p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/20161205_203532.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="medium_20161205_203532.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_20161205_203532.jpg" style="height:120px; width:120px" /></a></p> </div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-taggs field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">tags:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/tags/repair" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Repair</a></div></div></div> Sat, 17 Dec 2016 11:58:22 +0000 Martin 40 at http://dittegetnamn.se http://dittegetnamn.se/content/ensoniq-vfx-sd-keybed-connector-repair#comments Bonotron - effect unit http://dittegetnamn.se/content/bonotron-effect-unit <div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>A nice effect unit!</p> <p>It was made by <a href="http://www.bonotron.com/" target="_blank" title="Bonotron homepage">Bonotron</a>, a company that still seems to be active in Karlskoga, Sweden.</p> <p></p><div class="media_embed" height="315px" width="420px"> <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/V4vttyxoqEs" width="420px"></iframe></div> </div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-taggs field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">tags:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/tags/repair" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Repair</a></div></div></div> Fri, 20 Mar 2015 17:42:01 +0000 Martin 37 at http://dittegetnamn.se http://dittegetnamn.se/content/bonotron-effect-unit#comments Modifications on Doepfer A-110 VCO http://dittegetnamn.se/content/modifications-doepfer-110-vco <div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>Doepfer has a lot of nice synthesizer modules, and they often gives away the schematics. This leads to a lot of modification being made to enhance and enrich the already nice modules.</p> <p>The <a href="http://www.doepfer.de/a110.htm" target="_blank">A-110 VCO</a> is easy to modify to get softsync and FM-input for a more complete function as a voltage controlled oscillator. The schematic is found <a href="http://www.doepfer.de/a110_tec.htm" target="_blank">here</a>. The electronic part is really easy.</p> <h2>How to mount the extra jacks and switches</h2> <p>To make life simple, I did a small template for the drilling of the extra holes. It is very nice when all the holes are made equal on all VCO´s when making the modification on more than one module.The drilling itself was done by my dear <a href="http://www.sbyh.se" target="_blank">wife</a>, who is a silversmith and good at making nice holes in metal.</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/Doepfer_A110_mod_holes.jpg"><img alt="medium_Doepfer_A110_mod_holes.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_Doepfer_A110_mod_holes.jpg" /></a></p> <p>Here is the SVG-file. It contains one layer with the scanned panel and one layer with the drill guide. The SVG-file can be opened by Inkscape and adjusted. </p> <p><a href="http://www.dittegetnamn.se/sites/default/files/upload/images/A110_borrning.svg">A110_borrning.svg</a></p> <p>A nice picture of the A-110 after modification.</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/Doepfer_A110_mod_backside.jpg"><img alt="medium_Doepfer_A110_mod_backside.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_Doepfer_A110_mod_backside.jpg" style="height:120px; width:120px" /></a></p> </div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-taggs field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">tags:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/tags/repair" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Repair</a></div></div></div> Thu, 29 Jan 2015 06:27:17 +0000 Martin 35 at http://dittegetnamn.se http://dittegetnamn.se/content/modifications-doepfer-110-vco#comments Fix dead buttons on a Roland MC-303 http://dittegetnamn.se/content/fix-dead-buttons-roland-mc-303 <div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>Long time ago, my main sequencer for musical excursions were the <a href="http://www.vintagesynth.com/roland/mc303.php" target="_blank">Roland MC-303</a>. Maybe not the best in the world but sure did function well enough to have a lot of fun with. So, when a unit appeared for sale on the second hand market, I bought it.</p> <p>To my great disapointment, the Swedish Postal Service ("Posten") did it´s worst to kill the unit. But instead of going to the complaints department I ripped it open to find the fault.</p> <p>What was dead? Some very important buttons were completely unresponsive. The green circles shows which ones.</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/Dead_buttons.png"><img alt="medium_Dead_buttons.png" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_Dead_buttons.png" /></a></p> <p>The schematic clearly showed were to look if you consider which buttons that were dead. The wiring shows a normal way of scanning a lot of buttons using som logic.</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/cut_pcb.png"><img alt="medium_cut_pcb.png" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_cut_pcb.png" /></a></p> <p>And what did I find? A small crack on the PCB, just behind the "TAP"-button. It cut the PCB traces as shown above in the schematic.</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/crack.jpg"><img alt="medium_crack.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_crack.jpg" /></a></p> <p>And the fix (quick and dirty). The MC-303 now works perfectly.</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/fix.jpg"><img alt="medium_fix.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_fix.jpg" /></a></p> </div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-taggs field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">tags:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/tags/repair" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Repair</a></div></div></div> Mon, 13 Oct 2014 05:17:44 +0000 Martin 33 at http://dittegetnamn.se http://dittegetnamn.se/content/fix-dead-buttons-roland-mc-303#comments How to repair broken glasses http://dittegetnamn.se/content/how-repair-broken-glasses <div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>Some people need glasses, and I am one of them.</p> <p>Sometimes they are destroyed, and it´s very annoying to wait up to two weeks for new ones (and also manage to find time to meet the optician during busy days).</p> <p>One of the most regular incidents is that the side pieces breaks, which incidentally happend to me the other day.</p> <h2>How to repair broken side pieces?</h2> <p>Heat shrink tube! And as I am doing electronics I always have tube available in several colours. Black seemed to be the choice, but green/yellow (earth) would look nice.</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/repair%20glasses%20withy%20shrinking%20tube.jpg"><img alt="large_repair glasses withy shrinking tube.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/large_repair%20glasses%20withy%20shrinking%20tube.jpg" /></a></p> <p> </p> </div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-taggs field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">tags:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/tags/repair" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Repair</a></div></div></div> Tue, 19 Aug 2014 05:36:57 +0000 Martin 32 at http://dittegetnamn.se http://dittegetnamn.se/content/how-repair-broken-glasses#comments 2N2222A fuzz, nice for x0xb0x http://dittegetnamn.se/content/2n2222a-fuzz-nice-x0xb0x <div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>Well, a simple circuit. One transistor! Almost any transistor will work. In this case, an old transistor was used - the 2N2222A.</p> <p>The schematics:</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/2N2222A%20fuzz_schema.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="medium_2N2222A fuzz_schema.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/medium_2N2222A%20fuzz_schema.jpg" style="height:120px; width:120px" /></a></p> <p>Video: First without fuzz and then with fuzz. X0xb0x serves as sound source.</p> <p> </p> <p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/k2PKrDki90o?rel=0" width="420"></iframe></p> </div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-taggs field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">tags:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/tags/repair" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Repair</a></div></div></div> Fri, 08 Aug 2014 19:46:48 +0000 Martin 30 at http://dittegetnamn.se http://dittegetnamn.se/content/2n2222a-fuzz-nice-x0xb0x#comments Spiderbaby V2 (Arduino version) http://dittegetnamn.se/content/spiderbaby-v2-arduino-version <div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>A couple of years ago I did a small device grabbing midiclock and making some sort of trig from it. It was realized on a Attiny2313 and done completely in assembler. Assembler is a nice language!</p> <p>But, time moves on and why not try C?</p> <p>The MIDI Library was added and some small code was written.</p> <h2>What does the code do?</h2> <p>Well, not much really. It just checks if MIDI-messages such as START, STOP, CONTINUE, CLOCK is sent from a connected device such as a midi sequencer. Seperate handlers take care of what will happen when any of the messages are recieved. The trig-pattern (6 parellell outputs) is easy to expand or adjust. In the code it´s just cycling thru an array of 24 elements (midiclock is 24 ticks per quarternote).</p> <p>The trig pattern will give you 6 parallell outputs on pin 2 to pin 7 on an Arduino Uno V3, and as mentioned before very easy to change. Connect the outputs to some circuit (maybe LED + resistor) and then to an output jack.</p> <p>The midiinterface is a simple thing based on 6N138 but any variation will do.</p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/Spiderbaby_V2.ino">The sketch</a></p> <p><a href="/sites/default/files/upload/images/Spiderbaby%20V2-2_bb.jpg" target="_blank" title="Arduino Midi "><img alt="large_Spiderbaby V2-2_bb.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/large_Spiderbaby%20V2-2_bb.jpg" style="height:180px; width:180px" /></a></p> <p>If any help is needed, just contact me.</p> <p>Caution: When uploading the sketch, disconnect the RX. RX is used to upload the sketch and this will fail if connected during uploading.</p> </div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-taggs field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">tags:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/tags/repair" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Repair</a></div></div></div> Sun, 03 Aug 2014 21:43:38 +0000 Martin 29 at http://dittegetnamn.se http://dittegetnamn.se/content/spiderbaby-v2-arduino-version#comments Loose alternator nut on ye olde Gixxer http://dittegetnamn.se/content/loose-alternator-nut-ye-olde-gixxer <div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>This only happens to me.</p> <p>Riding my old Gixxer (Suzuki GSX-R 750 1985) it suddenly started to sound really bad. Bad in the way of total engine failure. Shut down and transport home on a trailer. The noise seemed to be from the clutch. After draining the oil, the clutch cover was removed. Picture below is of the clutch. Notice something on the top behind the clutch itself?</p> <p><img alt="GSXR 1985 750 clutch.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/GSXR%201985%20750%20clutch.jpg" style="height:338px; width:450px" /></p> <p>Aha! Something is not okay.. let us take a closer look. See picture below.</p> <p><img alt="GSXR 750 1985 error clutch.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/GSXR%20750%201985%20error%20clutch.jpg" style="height:342px; width:450px" /></p> <p>No, that doesn´t seem right. After some removal (including taking apart almost the whole engine in the frame) the alternator was pulled out. The alternator nut was loose and the washer (27 mm diameter and 2 mm thick steel) was gone. You can also see that the threads on the shaft was dented.</p> <p><img alt="GSXR 1985 alternator bolt loose.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/GSXR%201985%20alternator%20bolt%20loose.jpg" style="height:312px; width:450px" /></p> <p>A new bolt and washer was fastened in every way possible with a help from a friend. Loctite, locking bolt and so on. The nut was actually sanded down for the lock to engage securily on the damaged shaft. It will hold. I also had to take of the oil pan to find the remaining parts of the old washer. The washer just fell down to the bottom of the oil pan.. luckily..and was found.</p> <p><img alt="GSXR 750 1985 new alternator bolt.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/GSXR%20750%201985%20new%20alternator%20bolt.jpg" style="height:345px; width:450px" /></p> <p>After mounting it all together with new gaskets and some gasket glue.. it run´s fine again! Yeah!</p> </div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-taggs field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">tags:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/tags/repair" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Repair</a></div></div></div> Fri, 18 Jul 2014 10:04:54 +0000 Martin 28 at http://dittegetnamn.se http://dittegetnamn.se/content/loose-alternator-nut-ye-olde-gixxer#comments Bleep Drum - now with midi http://dittegetnamn.se/content/bleep-drum-now-midi <div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>I got hold of a Arduino Uno R3, with a Atmega328 (picopower) mounted. So, what to do with it?</p> <p>A drummachine!</p> <p><a href="http://bleeplabs.com/store/bleep-drum-midi/" target="_blank">The Bleep Drum</a> looked nice. The schematics and the code is on the site. The kids loves it!</p> <p> </p> <div class="media_embed" height="315px" width="420px"> <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315px" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/kaEleHnPrD0?rel=0" width="420px"></iframe></div> <p> </p> <p>When I actually got around to making a more sturdy front panel, I noticed it had a midi-update! Soon enough, I managed to get the code working (with help from Dr. Bleep and a zipped MIDI-library for the Arduino). Midi input was realized using 6N138, 1N4148, 220Ohm, 270Ohm classic circuit. Works like a charm! Just remember no implementation of midiclock, sync is done in <a href="http://bleeplabs.com/bleep-drum-user-guide/" target="_blank">another way</a> which works fine.</p> <p><img alt="Bleepdrum_arduino_midi.jpg" src="/sites/default/files/upload/images/Bleepdrum_arduino_midi.jpg" style="height:338px; width:450px" /></p> <p>The new front panel. The kids choose some of their favourite pictures for the panel.</p> </div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-taggs field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">tags:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/tags/repair" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Repair</a></div></div></div> Mon, 14 Jul 2014 22:14:08 +0000 Martin 27 at http://dittegetnamn.se http://dittegetnamn.se/content/bleep-drum-now-midi#comments